Continental Landing and Crossing The Antarctic Circle

17 February 2009, 10.15pm

I guess by now if you’ve been surfing the Quark website you will have seen the news of the day. I haven’t seen the full press release but understand it’s pretty comprehensive so I wont go into much more detail except to say all on board the Clipper Adventurer are in good spirits, everyone is understanding and happy to assist.

Now, to rewind the clock to yesterday morning. We started our day by passing through the Lemaire Channel in overcast conditions. It was an extremely chilly morning but it didn’t deter anyone from getting out on the bow as we passed through the narrowest point between Booth Island and the mainland. A pair of porpoising Minke Whales showed us the way. Once through the passage we made a sharp turn to Starboard to head into Port Charcot where once again we visited the stone hut used for magnetic observations on Charcot’s 1903-1905 French Antarctic Peninsula and tried to find a representative of each of the three species of brush-tailed penguins that live on the island to pose for a photograph (unsuccessful I’m afraid).
We also took to the water to cruise “iceberg alley” where dozens of icebergs of all shapes and sizes lie grounded. I wore a few extra layers after the extremely brisk start to the day, however, as they day wore on the sun shone through and the wind died away to reveal Antarctica in all its majesty. It was so warm that I was able to enjoy a sandwich on the back deck in short sleeves on our way to the afternoon’s landing site, Vernadsky Station.

After lunch we toured the Ukrainian base and nearby Wordie Hut. One young man took advantage of the fine weather, dramatic backdrop and relative quiet to pose a question on bended knee. Happily the answer was in the affirmative.

Once all were back on board 30 folks took the opportunity to take a leap of faith into the deep blue. I made the plunge for the third voyage in a row and I have to admit I like it. A plunge in icy waters is better than a double espresso shot!

After the plunge we hosted the Ukrainian crew from the base for a barbeque dinner on the stern deck. It was magnificent dining out with a glass of mulled wine under clear blue skies surrounded by huge glaciers and mountain tops. Later in the evening Mt Shackleton, Mt Scott and the peaks of the Lemaire were bathed in a gorgeous pink alpineglow.

Alas the blue skies did not last a full day. We woke once again under cloudy skies off Prospect Point and the nearby Fish Islands. Once we’d all landed on the continent proper, the seventh for quite a few passengers we took to the water once more. We spied Orcas and Minke Whales, numerous seals and Adelie colonies. Nearby, legendary wildlife film-maker Doug Allen was shooting the Orcas from Jerome Poncet’s equally legendary yacht the Golden Fleece.

One of our zodiacs became trapped in ice. It took some time to finally free the zodiac. All involved were met with hearty cheers and a warm cup of tea on their return to the ship. It was at this time that we were directed to head south to be in a position to assist the Ocean Nova should she not be able to refloat later this evening on the high tide. Everyone is understanding and we are about to toast an unexpected bonus. We are only a few short miles from crossing the Antarctic Circle, which will mean two firsts in one day for almost all on board.

David Sinclair