Emperors and Kings at last
By Blog.Admin
4 Dec 2009Between the dolphins, the surf and the wind, our Zodiac drivers used every ounce of skill they had to put us ashore safely.
This landing could not be missed and every Expedition Team member knew it. We were going to see King Penguins in their natural habitat. We had seen Emperors on the ice in Antarctica. We missed the Kings of South Georgia, but our visit to the Falklands (Malvinas) ensured that this voyage called Emperors and Kings delivered Emperor and King Penguins.There are only a handful on Saunders Island. They are out numbered by skuas, gentoos, cormorants and Magellanic penguins. But they aren't outsized. The second largest penguin species in the world towered over their neighbors. And out did them in the sartorial splendor department too! Black and white or hues of grey and white, with touches of sienna are the preferred colors for wildlife we've seen this trip.
There was a Magellanic woodpecker with a vibrant red head and a long-tailed meadowlark with a scarlet waistcoat, but they are the exceptions. Topping the almost gaudy list, however, are the Kings. Bright orange patches as brilliant as a Caribbean sunset adorn their heads. White breasts are tinted with an orange wash around the throat. And their bills glow with the same orange as their patches. They reminded me of a man who wears and impeccable black tuxedo, but sets it off with a brightly colored cummerbund and bow tie. Handsome.
Along the white sand beach at the tide line in the shallow water left by receding waves, Magellanic oystercatchers pecked away. Dolphin Gulls competed with flightless steamer ducks in the shallows too. The Falklands (Malvinas) really are a birder's paradise. I heard somewhere that there are two kinds of people - birders and people who don't say they are birders. I'm think I've moved from unaware to birder on this voyage.
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Jocelin,
What a pleasure to hear from you. We were on the trip together. Remember our chat about the expedition experience? Embracing the unexpected is essential as change is the only thing that is constant on an expedition such as the one we were on.
We talked about taking a motor coach tour or a Caribbean cruise if we wanted an experience that unfolded exactly as planned. Your comments above demonstrate that expedition spirit, as you found the beauty in our unexpected visit to Steeple Jason.
In no way did I joke about seeing Emperors and Kings. Although I am sure I would be breathless to see a large quantity of either bird, seeing even a handful in the wild was enough for me. I had joined that voyage especially to visit South Georgia. The anticipated bonus for me was the opportunity to see Emperors in the wild. I was disappointed that my personal goal was not met - but was thrilled - in the end to have seen Emperors and Kings, even a handful. The advantage to seeing a handful is the ability to really see individual behavior. I remember sitting for an hour on the ice watching as a small troup of Emps tobogganed and marched from one group of travelers to the next, pausing to look back at those who were looking at them. I also remember watching a single King snoozing on the grass on Steeple Jason. For me, those moments would have been lost had there been hundreds and thousands of birds.
Prisca Campbell
I certainly was not on the same trip as the dreamer who spun this one .. we MISSED South Georgia and 14 king penguins on Saunders Island cannot in any way make up for not seeing the thousands of King Penguins in their rookeries there.
The landing? Tough? Not at all - sometimes people get wet - after all we are on the ocean - staying dry is by default not the skill of the zodiac drivers - though they were TERRIFIC.
As for seeing Emperor penguins - the writer has to be joking - we MISSED the Snow Hill Rookery. The handful of Emperor penguins sauntering past the KK could not be in any way called an Emperor penguin experience ... so NO the Emperor and Kings expedition FAILED to realize its objectives.
The operative word in the entire statement is unaware - one could hardly be left unmoved by the glorious spectacle of the Black Browed Albatross colony on Steeple Jason ... the kilometers of nesting birds and their wheeling mates coming into land, feet first, folding their long and gracious wings followed with an endearing beak rubbing, open mouthed, loud and joyous (my interpretation) greeting. Perhaps she was giving him a mouthful for being late ... or he chastising her for having fun on the thermals - whichever they did what they do naturally and left us humans enriched in a very special way. THAT is a meeting with birds en mass ... its the difference between listening to you favourite group on DVD with the volume turned right down or going to a live concert with 30 000 people all 'doing their thing'.
In summary, the 3rd 2009 Nov/Dec Emperors and Kings trip failed to deliver the promises .... but there were a few unexpected highlights and heartwarming treats such as the Saunders Island Gentoo chicks at various stages of growth being another one of them.