Intro to Spitsbergen - Chris Epting's Blog
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By Chris Epting
I woke up at 4a.m. It was dark outside, something I hadn't really seen for a couple of weeks. Looking at the digital clock, glowing blue, I did the math: back on our ship in the Polar north, it was 1 p.m. So lunch was underway, no doubt after an exciting morning excursion.
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Poetry on Ice
By Chris Epting
I would be remiss if I did not mention the Quark Expedition team here – they have been (typically) exuberant, expert, witty, profound, humorous – all of the qualities that take a great voyage and make it unforgettable – the power of their personalities is a shining gift that we have all benefited from – Bravo and Brava, to the team...
Intense Wildlife Adventure
By Chris Epting
One of the most intense wildlife encounters of the whole adventure – the views from the mountain as well were lovely – a shimmering blue ocean, a necklace of beluga whales breaking the surface just off shore, a veil of sea fog enveloping the ship – a very fluid scene – but underfoot and in the air - stunning)...
Tundra on Tuesday...
By Chris Epting
Some more reindeer ambled by, but for me the plants were most riveting. Maybe it’s because we’ve been seeing so much snow and ice and open blue water – these small bursts of color set in the soil and against rocks were a lovely counterbalance. Coupled with the warmth and deep scent of spring, this was one of my favorite stops...
Sea Bird City at the edge of the world
By Chris Epting
Like a speck of black pepper, the black rubber boat nestled in among the massive sheets of packed white sea ice hugging the shore. But what made us feel even more infinitesimal was the chalky, massive ice-blue glacier that had collapsed nearby into the green-blue sea...
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The Blazing Midnight Sun
By Chris Epting
I’ve just about forgotten what night is. Funny, you live with it for 49 years, it’s gone for a few days, and you hardly remember it. At about 3:30 this morning, I looked out of our cabin and saw the requisite bright blue skies, glaciers, white mountains and of course, the blazing sun. Being in this place makes you want to live around the clock for fear of missing some spectacular view...
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An eruption of nature
By Chris Epting
Little prepared anyone for what we witnessed at morning (which, by the way, has become an extremely relative term, given that the sun never goes away). So let’s just say that at 7a.m. yesterday, beautiful chaos broke loose.
Woody announced over the ship’s address system that four polar bears had been spotted off the port side of the ship. That was sure to roust even the sleepiest of passengers, as a polar bear spotting is equivalent to announcing a free Lady Gaga concert in midtown Manhattan – people drops forks, razors and toothbrushes and convene in the blink of an eye...
Polar Power Rules...
By Chris Epting
Morning began with a large male walrus relaxing on a piece of ice - like a giant dollop of meringue on a thin, floating ice cracker. Slowly and quietly we approached for photos, and to watch this chocolate-brown behemoth undulate and roll over up close was breathtaking...
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The dogs, a baker ... and the beautiful deep blue sea
By Chris Epting
Early this cold morning, Charlie and I were in the back of a truck, wearing padded jumpsuits, bouncing past several flocks of black and white Eiderducks and, as we headed up into the snow covered mountains, milk-colored reindeer - lots of milk-colored reindeer. The truck stopped once we reached near the top of the mountain, where some fog shrouded the rolling white hills...
78 degrees in the (midnight) sun...
By Chris Epting
Arrived in the 78th parallel north today - in Longyearbyen on the island of Spitsbergen.
Pleasant four-hour flight north from Norway - gentle approach among the glaciers and meringue-like, snow-sculpted mountains - dark brown jags of rock jutting through the snow at random points - soft landing in a cold, crisp, remote paradise...