The Far Side of Antarctica Continued
At sea: December 9, 2007
New we are back to sea days. We had some fog and overcast skies this morning, yet we had some wonderful birds around us. And, of course, we had ice. It doesn't get any better than this!
The education program continued. Norm, our geologist, started the day with an introduction to the ice forms we will encounter on the Far Side. It was the perfect lecture for this time and place as the ice we are encountering is changing by the minute. With the ice come seals. We saw crabeater and leopard seals, plus many Adelie Penguins.
Daisy, the photographer in residence, continued to teach us how to take great photographs in cold conditions. David, our resident watercolor artist, continued to inspire all, regardless of experience, to connect with their inner artists.
Bob explained how icebreakers do their job. The focus of his presentation was, of course, Kapitan Khlebnikov.
At sea: December 10, 2007
One of our travelers is leading stretch and breathing classes at 7:30 AM each morning. Some of our travelers are fitness conscious. A very nice couple from Switzerland are often spied on deck stretching and working their upper bodies. This is not an insignificant achievement as their efforts sometimes involve snow storms and strong winds. Balancing on one leg is a challenge while the ship lurches through the ice like a drunkard.
S. Sandwich Islands, December 11, 2007
This morning was exciting! Jonas announced at 8AM that within a quarter of an hour we would cross the Antarctic Circle. The ship's horn was sounded at 8:15AM to mark the occasion.
After breakfast, we gathered on the bow and celebrated the crossing by sipping some very nice hot, spiced wine. One guest from America stripped down to a bikini top and pants, and one of our Australian guests donned shorts and sandals. South is south, isn't it? That excitement was followed by a sail past - an Emperor Penguin had hitched a regal ride on an ice floe.
Louise's singing group Ice Jam led a singalong. They were rehearsing in anticipation of carol singing. Louise, who is an accomplished vocalist, had brought sheet music and song lyrics with her.
In anticipation of our first helicopter operation, Jonas conducted a helo briefing, as well as an IAATO briefing. We operate our expeditions in Antarctica according to the stringent International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators guidelines. The guidelines are designed to ensure that the last great wilderness on Earth remains pristine for generations to come.
Ice pack, December 12, 2007
During the early hours, we encountered 10/10ths pack ice. For ice masters that means that the entire ocean surface is covered in ice. From the shuddering of the ship, it was clear that at least five engines were working. The ship rammed, reversed and rammed again, but the distance gain was small.
The captain deployed a helicopter for ice reconnaissance. He was hoping to find a lead - open water - through which to navigate to Cape Norvegia or Atka Bay. In 10/10ths ice, the ship moves too slowly to allow shore landings.
During the morning most of us were either out on the bow or on the Bridge. The sun had come out to illuminate spectacular scenery. White ice as far as the eye could see, with no open water at all. The vessel continued to bang and crash, but even for the amateur eye, it was fairly clear that we were not going to be doing this much longer. More ice reconnaissance flights were taken, but no one could find any open water anywhere near where we had hoped to go.
After lunch, we gathered in the Auditorium to listen to Jonas explain that we had to turn back. He showed as an ice chart. We had to return to the 7/10ths ice to make better speed.
There was a documentary shown, but most of us chose to stay out on the bow watching the icebreaker smash her way out of the heavy ice. At times, the ice pilot used the path he had created pushing into the ice. At other times he used small leads that he had found. All the leads were closing fast, driven by the wind and the pressure of the ice.