The Far Side of Antarctica Continued
At sea: December 19, 2007
We encountered some large ice floes in the early hours of the morning. The ship worked hard bashing a way through. Doors rattled and personal items shuddered.
The morning began with wildlife watching. We encountered more Emperor and Adelie Penguins, as well as crabeater seals. A beautiful flock of Antarctic Petrels flew around and over the ship. They soared on updrafts and then swooped down to sea level. The few Snow Petrels we encountered could barely be seen against the backdrop of white ice. Just little black eyes and beaks stood out in contrast.
From Bob, we learned all about Herbert Ponting, the camera artist who accompanied Robert Falcon Scott. Much of what we understand about early exploration was due to the images he captured on film.
After Bob's excellent introduction, we watched 90 Degrees South, the classic film Ponting made of Captain Scott's final expedition.
At sea: December 20, 2007
I awoke to a rolling ship, we were in open water with a noticeable swell and a very strong wind. But by the time the wake-up called was made we were sailing through patches of ice, and past tabular icebergs.
During the morning we drifted in and out of ice, eventually we were once again in open water with white caps. While we sailed we attended presentations that developed our photography and language skills.
By mid-afternoon we were once again in 10/10ths ice. Ten tenths ice means that the surface of the sea is entirely covered by ice. Five tenths, then means that half the surface is covered by ice. Only an icebreaker as powerful as Kapitan Khlebnikov is capable of maneuvering through 10/10ths ice. The movement is very slow, however, so our hopes of reaching Proclamation Island today were not realized.
When we left the Falkland Islands (Islas Malvinas) Lars had been put in charge of weather. By the time we reached the South Sandwich Islands, he was relieved of his duties. His replacement, Gunter Weller, relinquished his position to John Weller (no relation). Brave man, John...he predicted snow for tomorrow.
At sea: December 21, 2007
We were in 8/10ths ice when Jonas made his daily wake-up announcement. Snow as falling, but it wasn't cold enough to make the snow stick. Three crew members were outside shoveling snow so we could walk around the deck.
During our morning wildlife watch, we saw Southern Fulmars, Snow Petrels, a couple of crabeater seals and Adelie Penguins. Later a Giant Petrel flew back and forth across the bow, very low. We had a great opportunity to see its massive beak with the two tubes ending in a rather large hook.
Norm kept us intrigued with an Introduction to Geology: The Rocks We may See in Antarctica. He prepared us for our hoped for landing in the Australian sector.
Heather, our cartoonist, posted a cartoon every day beside the shop on Deck 5. It became a daily ritual to gather round and see the latest. We all enjoyed the laugh!
We knew we were approaching the Scullin and Murray Monoliths, because we saw more and more Antarctic Petrels, who breed there.
During dinner the sky began to clear and the cloud lifted, which drew our photographers to the deck to catch the lovely light.