West Greenland Exploring the Far North

With an ice front of just under 2.5 miles (4 km), Eqip Sermia is a truly massive glacier, with huge chunks of ice seen— and heard—calving into the water below. Navigating the narrow sound on the way to the glacier requires traversing ice-clogged water, which produces an ethereal feeling as bergs grind against the ship’s hull.

Ilulissat (formerly Jakobshaven) lies approximately 350 km north of the Arctic Circle. With a population of over 4500, it is the third-largest city in Greenland, after Nuuk and Sisimiut. The city is home to more sledge-dogs than residents! Founded by Danish trader Jacob Saverin as a trading post in 1741, Ilulissat today is a center for shrimp-fishing in the region. Directly translated, “Ilulissat” is the Kalaallisut word for “icebergs.” The town is situated 2 km north of the legendary Ice Fjord, through which colossal icebergs travel out to sea. Ilulissat is also the birthplace of noted polar explorer and anthropologist Knud Rasmussen, Greenland’s revered native son. You’ll be able to enter the house where he was born in 1879 as it’s now a small museum dedicated to his achievements. From 1906 until the early 1930s, Kununnguaq, or “Little Knud,” devoted his life to Arctic studies. His greatest achievements included the Danish Ethnographical Expedition to Arctic North America, also known as the Fifth Thule Expedition, which enabled Rasmussen and his team to take archaeological, geographical and natural history data from Greenland right across the North American Arctic.

Itilleq in Greenlandic means “a hollow,” which is where this village is situated, on an island without any freshwater. The village has approximately 130 inhabitants and offers picturesque views of colorful Greenlandic houses dotted along the rocky landscape. It’s also known as a welcoming community, where you might experience “kaffemik,” a Greenlandic tradition of inviting visitors in for coffee, cakes and conversation.

The northernmost point of our journey, this region is famous in Arctic exploration circles. Kap Alexander lies at the southern entrance to Smith Sound, and marks the northwestern tip of Greenland, directly across from Cape Isabella on Ellesmere Island, Canada—just 55 kilometers (35 miles) to the west. For generations, families have lived and traveled on both sides of the modern border—often without recognizing the boundary —viewing the region as a single, intimately connected environment. The near-constant inflow of Arctic Basin Sea ice means we may encounter bears on the ice. Arctic foxes, muskoxen, belugas, and migratory birds are also sometimes seen, particularly between summer and early fall.

Qaanaaq is one of the world’s most northern settlements. Traditional means of living are strong here, and the local museum helps shed some light on what it takes to live this close to the top of the world.

One of the oldest settlements in Greenland, Qeqertarsuaq was settled by whalers in 1773, but archeological evidence suggests that people lived here at least 6,000 years earlier. The town and surrounding area stand apart as the island’s only volcanic region. The area offers unusual geology and colorful landscapes, with particularly lush vegetation. More than half of Greenland’s plant species are found here, tucked between columns of basalt rock and black sand beaches littered with ice fragments. In town, you don’t want to miss Qeqertarsuaq’s Vorherres Bleaekhus, which hosts musical performances by resident artists. Local guides will also lead walking tours to visit the church, Qeqertarsuaq’s shopping area and businesses, and the local museum. If time and weather permit, there’s the chance of an extended hike to the incredible basalt columns 10 km down the coast. This hike isn’t for the faint of heart.

The second-largest town in Greenland, Sisimiut is a place to stretch your legs. Inhabited for more than 4,000 years, Sisimiut has a history that is a mix of Saqqaq, Dorset and Thule cultures. The colorful wooden houses here are typical of Greenlandic communities today. Nasaasaaq, an impressive mountain, provides a scenic backdrop for this settlement.

Uummannaq was founded as a Danish colony in 1758 on the Nuussuaq mainland, but in 1763 it was moved to the nearby island, as seal hunting was more plentiful there. A heart shaped mountain forms a striking backdrop to Greenland’s second- largest town.

The second northernmost community in Greenland, Upernavik is seldom visited by expedition vessels. Like many Greenlandic communities, it is warm and welcoming, with brightly colored homes nestled in a rocky coastal landscape, often surrounded by drifting icebergs. Its location—between the open waters of Baffin Bay to the west and more sheltered areas to the east—has long made it ideal for hunters, fishermen and explorers. Upernavik was frequently used as a port by Arctic explorers venturing deep into the Canadian Arctic. The community also has a complex history, including the story of Navarana, the Inuit wife of explorer Peter Freuchen, who is buried here.